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- My
steam injection doesn’t seem to work.
- My
airflow isn’t what it used to be.
- What
is the brown stuff forming on the walls of my finisher?
- What
is the typical maintenance needed on my finisher?
- What
maintenance should be performed on my Transporter® Conveyor?
- What
should my steam injection pressure be set at?
- What
temperature should I run my finisher at?
- When
should we clean the lint screen(s)?
- Why
is blue smoke coming out of the finisher?
- Why
is my counter not counting?
- Why
is water coming out of my steam tubes?
The steam injection system operates as
follows:
- A hanger
must pass the fiber optic assembly on the conveyor.
- This
will generate a signal to the photoelectric switch on
top of the finisher.
- The
photoelectric switch in turn sends a signal to the steam
timer in the control panel.
- When
the steam timer receives the signal from the photoelectric
switch (verify steam timer settings and refer to owners
manual), it in turn allows 110vac to travel to the coil
on the steam injection solenoid.
- At
that point the solenoid should open and the steam injection
process should start.
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- Verify
cleanliness of the blower. Even the finest layer of lint
could dramatically reduce the amount of airflow the fan
can produce. In the worst cases, operators have found
garments actually sucked into the blower.
- Verify
cleanliness of all lint screens and air plenums.
- Verify
that re-deposition (brown stuff) hasn’t attached to the
fins of the blower wheel. This will also reduce efficiency.
- Verify
proper blower rotation.
- Verify
belts are not slipping and are tightened sufficiently.
- Verify
proper voltage to the motor and amperage level. The nameplate
on the motor shows that information.
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This is a common challenge when changing
your finishing process from dry-to-dry to extracted-to-dry.
- The
brown stuff is a result of oils, grease, and dirt that
did not get properly evacuated in the wash cycle.
- Unfortunately
these impurities did not get held in suspension in the
detergent during the wash cycle and were re-deposited
on the garment and then through vaporization on the interior
of the finisher (re-deposition).
- The
finisher, unlike a dryer, is extremely visible in the
plant. When you were finishing dry-to-dry, you did not
see the problem because it was in your dryer.
- Checking
the wash formulas should be the first step.
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Cleanliness is one of the most important
things in operating and prolonging the life of the finisher.
Lint, water, boiler carryover, re-deposition; these are
the major enemies of the finisher.
Steam heated machines:
- Keep
the lint filters clean
- Inspect
at least weekly and clean if necessary the blower wheel(s)
- Inspect
at least weekly and clean if necessary the bottom side
of the steam coil(s)
- Clean
the interior of the steam section and hot air finishing
section as needed
- Clean
the top of the finisher as well as airflow motors weekly
Gas heated machines:
- Keep
the lint filters clean – both main airflow and combustion
air
- Inspect
at least weekly and clean if necessary the blower wheel(s)
- Clean
the interior of the steam section and hot air finishing
section as needed
- Clean
the top of the finisher periodically as needed
- Inspect
air plenums periodically as needed
- If
your flame is yellow and you are creating block soot,
it may be time to remove the ductwork going from the combustion
blower to the bottom of the burner. Remove the ductwork,
vacuum out the combustion blower and the baffles on the
bottom of the burner. Also, inspect and clean the ductwork
itself. Inspect and verify all components are free of
defects. This process should be done yearly.
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MONTHLY
1.
Inspect the conveyor chain at the drive unit.
- Inspect
for excessive wear (bearings, joints)
- Inspect
for the presence of grease
- Inspect
conveyor tubing and curves for excessive wear
- Verify
proper take up tension on conveyor chain
- Verify
proper oil level in gear box
BI-ANNUALLY
1. Change drive unit gearbox oil every
2500 hours of service or 6 months. If severe operating conditions
exist, change oil every 1 to 3 months. Use AGMA #7 or 7EP
when ambient temperature does not exceed 90 degrees F. Use
AGMA #8 or 8EP if ambient temperatures are normally between
80-125 degrees F.
ANNUALLY
1.
Inspect conveyor chain for presence of grease and
cleanliness.
- If
chain is visibly contaminated with other materials than
grease, the chain should be removed from the system, completely
cleaned and re-greased.
- The
conveyor tubing should also be inspected and thoroughly
cleaned.
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Regardless of what type of finisher you
have, the steam injection system is set in the same fashion.
Industrial launderer’s have a typical setting of 15-30psi
whereas retail cleaners typically have a setting of 5-15psi.
- When
setting the steam injection, first look at the steam pressure
gauge with the steam injection off. It should show full
steam line pressure.
- Now
initiate the steam injection process. The steam gauge
pressure should drop.
- Throttling
the ½” ball valve on the steam injection line on top of
the finisher will adjust your pressure accordingly.
- Closing
the valve will reduce the pressure, opening the valve
will increase the pressure.
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When finishing industrial products (65/35
work uniforms) there are several things to consider when
dealing with temperature. Keep in mind that all finishers
have four things that will impact your garments appearance,
STEAM, HEAT, AIRFLOW, and TIME.
- Fabric
temperature is just what it says; the actual temperature
the fabric reaches, not necessarily the temperature
setting on the finisher.
- Heat
tape must be used to acquire fabric temperature or some
type of heat tracking system. It is important to tape
several different areas on the garment to acquire accurate
information
- Poly-cotton
blended garments have a fabric temperature range of 260-280
degrees F. To obtain optimal appearance, this range should
not be exceeded in either direction.
When dealing with the steam injection pressure,
airflow and production rates, please contact a factory representative
for proper specifications.
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- Take
your busiest day and check the screens every hour.
- When
a light film of lint has accumulated, it is time to clean
the filter. Then follow that guideline.
- Your
particular process and volume will determine how often
you need to clean the filters.
*NEVER clean the lint screens with the
machine in operation
- On
gas heated machines, inspect the combustion blower lint
screen located on the exterior of the machine at the same
time and clean accordingly.
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This is a common challenge when changing
your finishing process from dry-to-dry to extracted-to-dry.
- The
blue smoke is due to vaporized oils, grease, and dirt
that did not get properly evacuated in the wash cycle.
- Unfortunately
these impurities did not get held in suspension in the
detergent during the wash cycle and were re-deposited
on the garment and then the interior of the finisher (re-deposition).
- The
finisher, unlike a dryer, is extremely visible in the
plant. When you were finishing dry-to-dry, you did not
see the problem because it was in your dryer.
- Checking
the wash formulas should be the first step.
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A count is initiated when a hanger passes
the fiber optic assembly on the conveyor. If this is not
consistent or does not function at all, take these steps:
- Inspect
the fiber optic cables for nicks, cuts, abrasions, burns
or any other defects.
- Verify
that the optic eye is also free from defects.
- If
the photoelectric switch is receiving a signal from the
fiber optic cables, the red light on the photoelectric
switch will blink as a hanger passes.
- Make
sure that the fiber optic cables are inserted properly
into the photoelectric switch. When installing the fiber
optic cables into the photoelectric switch on top of the
finisher, remove the cone shaped nuts; insert cables through
the nuts and into the receivers on the photoelectric switch
itself.
- DO
NOT strip the cables. A 90-degree cut with a razor blade
is recommended.
- When
inserting the cables into the photoelectric switch, the
cables will seem to bottom out, push the cables another
3/16” or so until they are fully seated.
- Install
the nuts and try the process again.
- There
is a sensitivity adjustment screw on the photoelectric
switch. This may need adjustment as well.
- Verify
wiring to the counter is in good shape.
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Why is water
coming out of my steam tubes?
There could be several different possibilities.
- Your
finisher has been supplied with steam traps and check
valves. If one of these is not operating properly, there
is the potential to back flow condensation through the
steam tubes. Here are a couple of very quick ways to tell
if the traps are operating properly on the finisher. First
test the boil-off tube in the bottom steam pan; if this
is hot, the trap most likely is not clogged. Also, in
steam-heated machines, if you are maintaining your typical
set temperature (over 212 degrees F) most likely the traps
for the steam coils are not clogged.
- Improper
steam system piping could lead to potential water problems
in the system. No traps should be in line with our finisher.
All supply and return connections should be made off of
the top of the steam supply header.
- Traps
within your steam system supplying other machinery could
backflow condensation. You will definitely want to check
those traps and check valves as well.
- Excessive
backpressure on the return line coupled with a faulty
end of the line steam trap or check valve could result
in this challenge.
- Siphoning
of the boiler is another possibility. Typically this shows
up as an intermittent problem throughout the day. This happens when
the boiler steam demand is too great for the system to
supply. You may need to check the peak demand of all of
your equipment to make sure you have a sufficient steam
source.
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